Caspian Sea Crossing

We wanted to travel over-land wherever possible and to do so, we had to take the unpredictable cargo ferry from the Azerbaijan port of Alat (1 hour from Baku) to Aktau, Kazakstan.

We had telephoned from Georgia and were told that the ferry could depart last night or today. We were extremely lucky that when we arrived on the overnight train from Tbilisi to Baku at 9a.m. we called the ferry office and were informed that the ferry was likely to leave that day.

At first, I was apprehensive about travelling by cargo ferry and I questioned why we were not just taking a flight. However, it was a super experience that I would not change.

Below is our experience in a chronological order.

10 a.m.

We arrived at the cargo terminal in Alat after an hour’s taxi ride from Baku.

10:20 a.m.

We found the ticket office – yes this is the ticket office! We paid USD 80 per person for a 2 person cabin.

12:30 p.m.

By 12:30 we had met the fellow foot passengers also waiting for the ferry. Some of whom had waited for 3 days.

4:00 p.m.

We were invited by Amir (a Turkish truck driver) to join him for dinner. He was lovely and made the most amazing food.

7:00 p.m.

W made friends with truck drivers and a security guard to pass the time.

9:00 p.m.

Amir the truck driver said he would sleep in his friend’s truck and that we could have the cab of his truck all to ourselves. Our fellow travellers had started getting their sleeping bags out as it was getting cold.

11:00 p.m.

After passport and security check, we are finally able to board the ship. We were super excited!

11:30 p.m.

These are the corridors for the foot passengers. We were given clean sheets and pillow covers.

5:30 a.m.

We finally set sail and the upper deck was the best place to be.

The next 22 hours were spent exploring

The engine room where the Captain was super welcoming.
The ferry’s name.
A typical lunch or dinner. Make sure you get to the cafeteria on time. It is only open for a specific time and if you miss it you miss your meal!
The guy on the left is the chef’s assistant and super friendly. He showed us how to sneak into the kitchen from the back door if we were a few minutes late!

3:00 a.m.

We arrived in Kazakstan at 3:00 a.m. the next morning.

Tips – based on our experience

  • Tickets – try calling the office everyday to see when the ferry is expected to land at the port
  • Room – we would highly recommend spending the extra $10 to have a room with a window for fresh air.
  • Food – the cafeteria timings are short and even during the slim operating hours, you will find the main door locked. However, you can enter via the kitchen, so just be a bit nosey!
  • We found this site very useful: Caravanistan website

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